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Wharram Narai

1968–present · designed by James Wharram (later variants with Hanneke Boon) · built by Wharram Designs (plans) / owner-built

Classic-era James Wharram Polynesian-inspired catamaran, ~33 ft — one of the most popular and most-built classic Wharrams. Multiple variants (Mk I through Mk IV) refined the design over the decades, with later marks credited to James Wharram and Hanneke Boon together. V-section hulls (the original Wharram hull form), open slatted bridge deck (no solid panel), deck-stepped mast supported by lashings, hulls lashed to crossbeams. Plywood construction from plans sold by Wharram Designs; later marks use epoxy throughout, earlier marks may have older resin systems. Wood-composite hull is repairable anywhere with hand tools, epoxy, and glass cloth. Designed for coastal-to- offshore cruising at modest cost; the Narai was one of the first Wharrams to accomplish significant ocean passages.

This is a general read on the Wharram Narai class — informed background, not a verdict on any individual boat. Condition, refit history, and how a particular hull was sailed and stored matter far more than class reputation. Use it to know what to look for; for a read on a specific listing, run a free FairKeel report on that boat.

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At a glance

Hull form
Multihull Cat
Rudder
Transom Hung
Mast step
Deck Stepped
Hull construction
Wood
Bridgedeck
Open
Production
1968–present
Built in
UK (plans) / variable (owner-built)

What the Wharram Narai is known for

Known trade-offs

Age-related quirks to expect

Multiple variants (Mk I through Mk IV) — verify which mark; later marks have refined details and modern epoxy practice severity: Medium affects: all (variant-driven)
Owner-built quality variance — every Narai is bespoke; survey must assess THIS hull, not class priors severity: High affects: all (owner-built)
Original-era plywood + older resin systems on early-Mk hulls — pre-epoxy hulls used polyester or other less-durable resins severity: High affects: Mk I-II (late 1960s-1970s)
Plywood-resin hull moisture susceptibility — breached coatings + persistent moisture = plywood rot severity: High affects: all (age + maintenance-driven)
Lashed crossbeam attachment — annual inspection, replacement every 5-10 years; verify current lashing material severity: Medium affects: all (architectural)

Systems to check before you buy

Hull-laminate condition (plywood + resin system) priority: coastal, offshore, liveaboard

Highest-risk system on any classic Wharram. Inspect resin coating condition (early-Mk hulls may have polyester or other older systems; verify what's been applied over the boat's life), plywood-stitch joint integrity. Moisture-meter survey of every hull section is mandatory. Build provenance varies — later marks with epoxy construction may have better documentation.

Lashings + crossbeam attachment priority: offshore, coastal

Hulls lashed to crossbeams. Annual inspection and replacement every 5-10 years with modern synthetic line.

Wharram classic gaff or wing-sail rig priority: offshore, coastal

Narai rig varies by mark — classic gaff on earlier hulls, wing-sail conversions on some later refits. Consult Wharram Designs or experienced Wharram riggers; class-specific sail cuts.

Auxiliary propulsion (small outboard or twin outboards) priority: coastal, liveaboard

Single 8-15hp or twin 5-8hp outboards typical. Outboard wells in plywood hulls are a moisture-ingress hotspot.

How it fits your plans

Offshore
Workable for well-built later-mark examples with experienced crew. Early-mark Narais on older resin systems are higher-risk offshore. The Narai was one of the first Wharrams to accomplish significant ocean passages.
Coastal
Designed for it. Shoal-water cruiser, shorthanded-friendly.
Liveaboard
Workable for one or a tolerant couple; living is in the hulls; deck-tent or hard-top over open bridge platform.

This guide is the class. A report is that hull. Paste the listing you're looking at and FairKeel grades every claim in it against what's known about the Wharram Narai — where the evidence is thin, the red flags worth a second look, the costs likely to land in your first season, and whether the boat suits the plans you describe in a few short questions.

It won't read the photos or put a number on the boat — that's the Deep-Dive, and for the real answer, a surveyor. It will tell you when a Deep-Dive isn't worth buying. Free, no account, usually a minute or two.

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