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Pearson 30

1971–1981 · designed by Bill Shaw · built by Pearson Yachts

Bill Shaw-designed production fin-keel coastal cruiser. Masthead sloop rig, moderately heavy displacement for its LOA, conservative deck plan. Designed as a mid-priced family weekender / coastal cruiser at a time when Pearson was competing directly with Catalina, Cal, and O'Day for the 30-foot US market. Built in Bristol, Rhode Island; Pearson Yachts is long defunct.

This is a general read on the Pearson 30 class — informed background, not a verdict on any individual boat. Condition, refit history, and how a particular hull was sailed and stored matter far more than class reputation. Use it to know what to look for; for a read on a specific listing, run a free FairKeel report on that boat.

We grade that listing's own claims against what's known about the class, and flag the gaps a survey would catch. Free, no account. No listing yet? See what the free report looks like (a real one, anonymised), or search for a Pearson 30 for sale and come back with the link.

At a glance

Hull form
Fin Keel
Ballast type
Bolt On Lead
Rudder
Spade
Mast step
Deck Stepped
Hull construction
Fiberglass
Production
1971–1981
Built in
USA

What the Pearson 30 is known for

Known trade-offs

Age-related quirks to expect

Original Atomic 4 gasoline engine on most hulls — diesel repower history is the biggest price-differentiator severity: Medium affects: 1971-1981
Deck core moisture — balsa-cored deck on most hulls; stanchion bases + chainplate openings are recurring leak paths severity: Medium affects: all (age-driven)
Original wiring + 110V shore-power panel undersized by modern standards severity: Low affects: all
Pearson Yachts defunct since 1991 — no factory parts support; replacement hardware sourced from owner network and salvage severity: Low affects: all (post-1991)

Systems to check before you buy

Engine (Atomic 4 vs. diesel repower history) priority: coastal, weekending

Original Atomic 4 (gasoline) on most hulls. Many have been repowered with Yanmar 2GM20, Universal M-25, or Beta Marine equivalents. An unrepowered Atomic 4 at 45+ years should be assumed effectively at end of life — gasoline auxiliaries are increasingly unwelcome in marinas and insurance underwriting.

Deck core + hull-deck joint priority: coastal, weekending, liveaboard

Balsa-cored deck on most hulls. Stanchion bases, genoa-track fasteners, chainplate openings, and the mast-step area (deck-stepped mast) are the recurring water-ingress paths. Moisture-meter survey is non-negotiable. Localised repair is affordable; widespread coring failure is a project-boat outcome.

Standing rigging + chainplates priority: coastal, offshore

Original wire + chainplates on most older hulls. Chainplates are stainless steel through bulkheads — leak paths into the bulkhead cores are the typical failure mode. Mast is deck-stepped so compression at the deck mast-step area is a separate item to check.

Cockpit + cockpit drains priority: coastal, offshore

Original cockpit-drain hoses and through-hulls have typically not been replaced on 50-year-old hulls. The cockpit drain path is a critical safety system for any boat going offshore or in heavy weather; budget replacement during any major refit.

How it fits your plans

Coastal
Sweet spot. Forgiving, well-built for its era, predictable. A reasonable first-boat for someone learning coastal cruising on a budget.
Offshore
NOT designed for offshore work. Fin-keel + spade rudder + production-era coastal build. Owners have crossed oceans in Pearson 30s, but it's swimming upstream of the design intent.
Liveaboard
Workable for short-term coastal liveaboard. Tankage is modest; interior volume is tight by modern standards.
Weekending
Excellent. Designed for it.

This guide is the class. A report is that hull. Paste the listing you're looking at and FairKeel grades every claim in it against what's known about the Pearson 30 — where the evidence is thin, the red flags worth a second look, the costs likely to land in your first season, and whether the boat suits the plans you describe in a few short questions.

It won't read the photos or put a number on the boat — that's the $249 Deep-Dive, and for the real answer, a surveyor. It will tell you when a Deep-Dive isn't worth buying. Free, no account, usually a minute or two.

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