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C&C 35

1969–1987 · designed by Cuthbertson & Cassian (Mk I and Mk II); Robert W. Ball / C&C Yachts (Mk III) · built by C&C Yachts (originally Hinterhoeller Yachts as the Redwing 35; renamed C&C 35 after merger)

The C&C 35 spans three distinct designs across an 18-year production run. The Mk I (1969–1973) and Mk II (1973–1975) were Cuthbertson & Cassian cruiser-racers built to IOR-adjacent handicap rules, emphasizing upwind speed, stiff fiberglass construction, and a quality fit and finish unusual for Canadian production boats of the era. The Mk III (1982–1987) was a completely new design by Robert W. Ball of C&C — lighter, with a taller rig and deeper fin keel — targeting PHRF club racing while retaining coastal cruising utility. All versions prioritize performance over offshore range or heavy-weather self-sufficiency.

This is a general read on the C&C 35 class — informed background, not a verdict on any individual boat. Condition, refit history, and how a particular hull was sailed and stored matter far more than class reputation. Use it to know what to look for; for a read on a specific listing, run a free FairKeel report on that boat.

We grade that listing's own claims against what's known about the class, and flag the gaps a survey would catch. Free, no account. No listing yet? See what the free report looks like (a real one, anonymised), or search for a C&C 35 for sale and come back with the link.

At a glance

Hull form
Fin Keel
Ballast type
Bolt On Lead
Rudder
Spade
Mast step
Keel Stepped
Hull construction
Fiberglass
Production
1969–1987
Built in
Canada

What the C&C 35 is known for

Known trade-offs

Age-related quirks to expect

Osmotic blistering (pre-1980 hulls) severity: Medium affects: 1969-1979
Balsa core deck delamination and rot around deck hardware severity: High affects: 1969-1987
Original standing rigging age — most boats are on second or third rig severity: Medium affects: 1969-1987
IOR-era interior joinery (teak-faced plywood) showing delamination and fastener failure in older hulls severity: Low affects: 1969-1982
Original Atomic 4 gasoline engine standard on Mk I/II (late Mk II could be ordered with an optional 15hp Westerbeke diesel); Mk III came with a Yanmar 3GM30F — Atomic 4 boats need a realistic repower budget; repower quality varies widely severity: Medium affects: 1969-1987

Systems to check before you buy

Deck core — all hardware penetrations and non-skid panels priority: offshore, coastal, liveaboard

C&C used balsa core throughout the deck. Any unsealed fastener penetration or cracked bedding allows water ingress and progressive rot. Tap the entire deck, sound around chainplates, stanchion bases, and cleats. Soft spots anywhere near hardware are a red flag requiring core replacement, not just rebedding.

Keel attachment and chainplates priority: offshore, coastal

Bolt-on lead keel with through-bolts that can corrode or work loose over decades. Inspect the keel sump area for rust staining, cracking in the tabbing, or movement under load. Chainplates are inboard-mounted and encased in the liner or cabinetry on many versions — access is limited and hidden corrosion is a known issue.

Standing rigging and mast step priority: offshore, coastal, racing

Most C&C 35s are 40–50+ years old. Wire rigging past 10 years from the last replacement is overdue for offshore. Inspect swage fittings for cracks and the mast step casting or plate for corrosion and cracking. The tall rig on all marks puts high loads on a relatively narrow chain of hardware.

Engine installation and raw water cooling priority: offshore, coastal, liveaboard

The Universal Atomic 4 gasoline engine was standard on Mk I and Mk II; late-production Mk II boats could be ordered with an optional 15hp Westerbeke diesel. Mk III came with a Yanmar 3GM30F diesel. Most surviving Mk I/II boats have been repowered — quality of repower varies from professional to improvised. Verify engine mount alignment, exhaust routing, and that raw water strainer, impeller, and heat exchanger are serviceable. Boats still running an Atomic 4 need a repower budget factored into the purchase price.

Hull-to-deck joint and through-hull fittings priority: offshore, coastal, liveaboard

The hull-to-deck joint on early C&C hulls was inward-flanged and bolted — inspect for separation or cracking, particularly at the bow and stern. Through-hulls are likely original bronze or early seacocks that may be frozen or dezincified. Count and operate every through-hull before surveying.

How it fits your plans

Offshore
Capable in competent hands for coastal bluewater passages, but the IOR hull form (wide beam aft, snappy motion) is tiring in steep offshore conditions. Not a passage-maker's first choice; better as a delivery or occasional offshore boat with an experienced crew. Rig age and deck core condition must be resolved before offshore use.
Coastal
A strong fit — fast, responsive, and well-balanced on coastal passages. PHRF competitive on handicap and enjoyable to sail shorthanded in moderate conditions. Most C&C 35s in active use spend their lives here.
Liveaboard
Workable for one person or a couple in a temperate climate, but the IOR-era interior is narrow and lacks stowage by modern standards. The saloon is livable; the galley and head are functional but tight. Not a comfortable full-time home.
Racing
This is where the C&C 35 shines. Stiff, fast upwind, and well-dialed for PHRF club racing. A well-maintained example is competitive without modification. The fleet is active enough in some regions to find one-design racing.
Weekending
Excellent weekender — enough speed to make a destination feel rewarding, adequate berths for two adults and kids, and an easy sailing personality that forgives moderate crew skill.
Motor
Underpowered under engine in most configurations relative to displacement; acceptable for marina maneuvering and calm-water motoring but not suitable for extended motoring passages.

This guide is the class. A report is that hull. Paste the listing you're looking at and FairKeel grades every claim in it against what's known about the C&C 35 — where the evidence is thin, the red flags worth a second look, the costs likely to land in your first season, and whether the boat suits the plans you describe in a few short questions.

It won't read the photos or put a number on the boat — that's the $249 Deep-Dive, and for the real answer, a surveyor. It will tell you when a Deep-Dive isn't worth buying. Free, no account, usually a minute or two.

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