Baba 35

1979–1986 · designed by Robert Perry · built by Ta Shing Yacht Building Ltd.

The Baba 35 is a double-ended, full-keel cruising cutter designed by Robert Perry and built in Tainan, Taiwan by Ta Shing Yacht Building Ltd., aimed squarely at blue-water passage-making. Perry drew a seakindly canoe-stern hull with a long, continuous keel for directional stability and passive tracking offshore. The boat earned a strong reputation among serious cruisers for its robust construction, comfortable motion in a seaway, and self-steering compatibility, at the cost of light-air performance and marina maneuverability.

This is a general read on the Baba 35 class — informed background, not a verdict on any individual boat. Condition, refit history, and how a particular hull was sailed and stored matter far more than class reputation. Use it to know what to look for; for a read on a specific listing, run a free FairKeel report on that boat.

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At a glance

Hull form: Full Keel
Mast step: Keel Stepped
Hull construction: Fiberglass
Production: 1979–1986
Built in: Taiwan

What the Baba 35 is known for

Proven offshore hull form — the double-ended canoe stern and full keel deliver a seakindly, forgiving motion in heavy weather that has completed numerous Pacific and Atlantic crossings.
Robust Taiwanese construction quality from Ta Shing, generally regarded as among the better yards of the era — solid glass layup, quality joinery, and careful systems integration compared to production contemporaries.
Keel-stepped cutter rig and flexible sail plan make the boat manageable short-handed and forgiving of rig-tuning neglect, with inner forestay options for storm conditions.
Strong resale and parts community — Robert Perry's reputation and the boat's offshore record sustain owner interest and a knowledgeable used-parts network despite the small production run.
Integral full keel provides redundancy and simplicity at the rudder end — no spade to bend in a grounding and no exposed rudder bearings requiring periodic replacement.

Known trade-offs

Light-air performance is genuinely poor — the heavy displacement and full keel create significant drag under 10 knots of breeze, making coastal day-sailing frustrating without a reliable engine or a large downwind inventory.
Teak deck lifespan is the defining financial risk of the class — nearly every hull has had or will need a full deck replacement, and deferred maintenance here cascades into structural core repair.
Maneuverability under power is limited by the long keel and relatively underpowered original engine installations; backing into a slip or navigating tight fairways requires practice and patience.
Cockpit is small by modern standards, reducing comfort for extended daysailing or entertaining at anchor.
Original galley and electrical systems in unrestored boats are typically dated and undersized for modern liveaboard or offshore expectations — budget for a full electrical refit on any hull that hasn't had documented work in the last decade.

Age-related quirks to expect

Osmotic blistering (early hull layup) Medium 1979-1983

Teak deck fastener rot and core saturation High 1979-1986

Original Yanmar or Universal engine at end of service life Medium 1979-1986

Bronze seacock dezincification (Taiwanese-era fittings) High 1979-1986

Standing rigging age (original or first replacement now 20+ years old) Medium 1979-1986

Systems to check before you buy

Teak decks and underlying core priority: offshore, liveaboard, coastal

Teak decks were factory-fitted on most hulls with thousands of fasteners penetrating the fiberglass deck. Over decades, the plugs dry out, the fasteners back out, and water migrates into the balsa or plywood core. Probe all low spots; check for soft areas around chainplates, mast partners, and the coachroof perimeter. Full teak deck removal and re-core is the most expensive single repair this class faces.

Keel-hull joint and encapsulated ballast priority: offshore, coastal

The full keel is integral to the hull layup. Check for rust weeping or staining low on the hull sides — a sign ballast is oxidizing inside the laminate. The keel-hull fillet should be inspected for cracking or separation. Grounding events can stress the joint without visible external damage.

Chainplates and deck penetrations priority: offshore, coastal, liveaboard

Taiwanese-built boats of this era used internal chainplates bolted through deck or hull-side structure. Leaks around chainplate cover plates are common and often long-standing, leading to saturated backing structure. Pull covers and inspect for corrosion, staining, and wood backing plate integrity.

Seacocks and through-hulls priority: offshore, liveaboard, coastal

Original gate valves or early bronze seacocks should be presumed in need of replacement on any hull that has not had documented through-hull work. Dezincification of bronze fittings was common on Taiwanese-sourced hardware. Test operation of every seacock; reject any that do not turn freely.

Rig, mast step, and standing rigging priority: offshore, coastal, weekending

Keel-stepped aluminum masts sit in a mast boot at deck level; water infiltration and pooling at the base cause corrosion of the mast heel and step casting. Standing rigging from the 1990s or earlier should be replaced regardless of appearance. Inspect toggle pins, clevis pins, and chainplate tangs for corrosion and wear.

How it fits your plans

Offshore: A genuinely strong offshore candidate — the double-ended full-keel hull tracks well, handles heavy weather with a forgiving motion, and is well-suited to long passages with a small crew. The cutter rig gives flexible sail management options offshore. A well-maintained example with updated rigging and systems is a credible blue-water boat.
Coastal: Capable coastal cruiser but the full keel and canoe stern make tight harbors and light-air sailing frustrating. Draft of around 5.5 feet limits shoal-water access. Suits sailors who prioritize safety margin over agility.
Liveaboard: Interior volume is adequate but not generous for a 35-footer. The layout is practical rather than spacious. Suitable for a couple committed to the liveaboard life, particularly if the boat is kept in a marina rather than on a mooring requiring frequent dinghy trips.
Weekending: Workable for weekend sailing but the boat rewards longer passages; the full keel's light-air performance deficit makes short harbor hops feel labored in anything under 10 knots true wind.
Racing: Not a racing platform; the design was never intended for it and the displacement and keel profile place it firmly in the cruising category.
Motor: Underpowered original engine installations make motoring in strong adverse conditions marginal; the long keel reduces maneuverability under power and makes reversing into slips a practiced skill.

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